Ultraman Wall
We found this wall while looking for the Panty Wall. We selected the Panty Wall because you could see it from the parking lot, it was a short approach, and it had quite a few climbs rated 5.8 and below. The climbs we wanted to do most were Panty Prow (5.6), Silk Panties (5.7), Boxer Rebellion (5.8) and Brief Encounters (5.8). We hope to do these climbs some day.
However, when we came to where the path branched, we were not sure if it was the real branch of the trail so we continued on and found ourselves at the Ultraman Wall. You may ask how someone could actually miss one of these walls and end up at another even though they could both be seen from the parking lot. We have not figured out an answer to that yet. That being said, we made a quick cheat sheet to get to the Ultraman Wall and if we should ever get back and climb the Panty Wall, we will make a cheat sheet for that, too. Not that you may need it, but I know we will!
We climbed Godzilla which was rated 5.7 PG13. We did think that the bolts were very far apart, but the climbing was very solid coming up to the first 3 bolts. Once the third bolt was clipped, we felt safe. The climb features lots of crisp holds and comfortable stances.
The Magic Bus Wall (Sport / Trad)
It doesn't get easier than this. The Magic Bus Wall has some moderate level routes with what some may call "over bolting" - but that is what I thought sport climbing was all about.
My favorite route is the 5.8. There are always good ridges for your feet, and almost always a crisp edge to tuck your fingers behind. There is a bolt every couple of moves.
There are several other climbs worth doing on this wall, though the one on the far left had a relatively long section between two of the bolts near the top.
The approach to the wall is kind of a pain, with some wandering and scrambling. The area does not get shade until the sun is ready to set, so it is best to climb here in the morning, evening, or on a cool day.
We use this place to warm up before we go over to the Dark Corridor, which is a short walk from the Magic Bus Wall.
Black Corridor
The Black Corridor is a great place to climb on a hot day because the sun only hits the corridor for a brief time. We find that this is a great area to meet new people and socialize as well as climb.
The Black Corridor has 5.9's and up, but we find some of the climbs to be a bit easier than an East Coast climb at the same rating. Bon EZ is a good climb to start with.
There are several 5.9's next to Bon EZ as well as some at that level in the upper section that are a bit overhanging and pumpy. They offer some pretty exciting moves.
The Upper Corridor also has 5.9 arête with a hard start and an easy finish. There are some nice bolted 5.10's in that area, as well as some more difficult climbing.
The Gallery
We really like going to the Gallery. The approach is longer than that for the other places listed here and the climbing is harder. A nice feature of the wall is that you can start on the left climb on the right side of the area with a 5.8 (Sport Climbing is Neither), move right to Buck's Muscle World (5.9), and work right going up in grade. We have only made it to Running Amuck so far. Buck's Muscle World is my favorite on that wall.
Recommended Books
- Red Rocks Select by Todd Swain (published by Chockstone Press).
- Rock Climbing Red Rocks by Todd Swain (published by Chockstone Press). This book includes climbs not found in the Red Rocks Select book (like Johnny Vegas) and the Ultraman Wall